Garden maintenance in May to spray. Spring spraying of the orchard. The main thing is

08.08.2020

In the spring, already in the month of March, a caring summer resident has a rooftop! First of all, we go to the garden: we check the shelters (in the daytime, when the weather is favorable, they can be ventilated), we proceed to pruning fruit trees, and think about the early spring spraying of the garden. With regards to treatment against pests and diseases in the spring Most amateur gardeners have two main questions:

When to start spraying trees and shrubs?
What can you spray your garden with in spring?

We tried to answer both of these questions in as much detail as possible in this article.

Timing: When to spray trees and shrubs in spring

The exact date when you can start spraying, nobody will tell. In theory, the garden can be sprayed at the end of March. At this time, during the day, the temperature can rise up to 10 degrees Celsius, and insect pests wake up at a temperature of 5-6 degrees Celsius. In addition, the causative agents of fungal diseases (rot, scab, moniliosis) begin to spread early. But the treatment at the end of March may turn out to be ineffective, because wet snow can still fall, drizzle, and the product will quickly wash off. It is best to wait for drier, more stable weather in April.

Usually, fruit trees in the garden in spring sprayed in two terms:

BEFORE swelling / blooming of the kidneys (first of all - from diseases),
DURING budding in the green cone phase (first of all - from pests, as well as from diseases).

1. First spraying

When to spray? At the stage of closed, dormant buds, as they say, “on a bare tree”, when there are no signs of awakening on it yet. At this time, the spores of fungal diseases may already begin to scatter. It is believed that it is advisable to carry out the treatment when the average daily air temperature reaches 5 degrees Celsius.

Than? The first spraying is carried out for diseases, since the insects have not yet had time to activate, they simply have nothing to eat (the kidneys have not opened). Spraying will protect the garden from various types of rot, moniliosis of stone fruit crops, and from scab on apple and pear trees. The drugs are used: Bordeaux mixture 3%, urea, iron vitriol, copper sulfate, copper-containing preparations Hom, Oxyhom, fungicides Horus, Skor, Pharmayod, Abiga-peak, Nitrafen, Rayek and insecticides "30 plus", "Prophylactin".

Before the kidneys open, treatment is relevant against wintering stages of pests, and here modern drugs "30 plus" and "Prophylactin" come to the rescue, as well as the proven complex remedy "Nitrafen", which works both against pests and against diseases.

2. Second spraying

When to spray? Along the green cone, when the buds have already burst, but the leaves have not yet begun to unfold. It is very important not to skip this phase, as the apple blossom beetle (weevil) is activated.

Than? Insecticides are used against pests: Iskra, Intavir, Tanrek, Kinmiks, Fufanon, Decis Profi. It is possible to carry out treatment with fungicides for diseases: Bordeaux mixture 1%, Horus, Skor, Oxyhom. It is only important to consider that Horus works well in cool weather and is more suitable for the first treatment, while Skor is more effective at temperatures above 5 degrees Celsius.

You can spray fruit trees 2 more times: at the stage of a pink bud (not for flowering plants) and on ovaries, the size of a pea - against the apple moth and against moniliosis (second wave). Suitable for spraying Iskra and Intavir, Decis, Horus, as well as biopreparations Fitoverm and Bitoxibacillin (operate at temperatures above 14 degrees).

It is necessary to spray not only the branches, but also the trunk and even the trunk circle. Fruit trees, stone fruits and berry bushes are processed.

Currants and raspberries it is also better to process it early, without waiting for the swelling of the kidneys. First of all, you can go to collect mite buds (they are round, and healthy ones are elongated), they can be distinguished even in winter. The tick wakes up at an average daily temperature of 5 degrees Celsius. The kidneys must be collected and burned. Twisted shoots that were infested with aphids last year are also cut and burned.

It is possible to spray early, while it is still cool enough, with acaricidal preparations against ticks: Teovit-Jet, Kleschevit, Akarin, Aktellik. At temperatures above 12 degrees Celsius, the biological product Fitoverm is used.

On the swollen buds, before the leaves bloom, they are sprayed with insecticides: Iskra, Decis Profi, Tanrek. For the prevention of powdery mildew, currants are sprayed with copper-containing preparations (Bordeaux mixture, chorus, home, oxyhom, skor), when the leaves have already begun to bloom - at the end of May.

Raspberries are also treated with fungicidal copper-containing preparations before the leaves bloom - against diseases, against pests - with the above insecticides.

Before bud break, currants and gooseberries infected with anthracnose or powdery mildew are sprayed with solutions of nitrafen, karbofos or Bordeaux liquid.

Attention! The preparations are sprayed with garden sprayers in calm weather in the morning or in the evening.

And what will the lunar calendar 2019 say ...

Most of the printed sources indicate that sprinkling trees and shrubs you can start late March - early April. And if you look into Lunar calendar for 2019, in it, among other works on caring for plants, it is recommended to spray trees in the garden already at the beginning of March (too early, of course, but such information takes place):

In March:

March 3, 4, 8, 9, 13, 14, 17, 18, 19, 25, 26, 27, 30, 31 - spraying trees and shrubs from diseases and pests.
March 17, 18, 19, 25, 26, 27, 30, 31 - spraying plants from diseases and pests.
March 14, 17, 25 - processing of currants and gooseberries with hot water.

In April:

April 1, 9, 10, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 22, 23, 26, 27, 28 - spraying the garden against diseases and pests,
April 9 - hot water treatment of currants and gooseberries.

In May:

1, 2, 6, 7, 8, 19, 20, 25, 30 May - treatment of the garden from diseases and pests,

Means: How to spray the garden in spring?

And now let's go over the means that are used to spray trees and shrubs in the spring, we divided them into two groups: traditional and modern. In the description of each tool, we also highlight the recommended processing time.

Traditional drugs:

Urea

Traditionally, in horticulture, a concentrated urea solution is used to treat the garden in early spring. The printed sources offer different dosages: 500 g, 600 g or 700 g of urea per 10 liters of water. Accordingly, at the exit we get a 5%, 6% or 7% solution. At our own summer cottage, we use urea for early spring spraying. The result is a rich and healthy harvest of apples, pears, cherries (almost always). The best result is obtained by using a complex solution: 700 g of urea per 10 liters of water + 50 g of copper sulfate. BEFORE bud break.

inkstone

A traditional, effective and versatile product. In the first half of April, a solution of ferrous sulfate (300 g per 10 liters of water) can be sprayed on trees on bare branches and trunks - this will destroy pests. A solution of a lower concentration is used in the fall after the leaves from an apple, pear and plum have fallen: 100 g of vitriol is dissolved in 10 liters of water. Lichens on the trunks are also treated with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate (300 g per 10 liters of water). BEFORE bud break.

Copper sulfate

1% solution of copper sulfate (100 g per 10 liters of water) is effective against fungal diseases, mold and some pests. It is often used for spraying fruit trees and berry bushes in order to prevent fungal diseases in spring BEFORE bud break. The solution is effective against pathogens of scab, moniliosis, clasterosporiosis, coccomycosis, anthracosis, septoria and all kinds of spots.

Modern gardeners prefer to use copper sulfate in the spring as part of a Bordeaux mixture or urea solution.

Bordeaux mixture

A remedy as old as the world. For spraying the garden in early spring BEFORE bud break, a concentrated 3% solution is used, and in the phase of the green cone - only 1% solution of the Bordeaux mixture. Details on the preparation of the solution were discussed in the article:

Nitrafen

Against pests in the wintering stage, while the buds are not yet swollen in the spring, fruit trees are sprayed with a 3% Nitrafen solution (300 g per 10 liters of water), and shrubs - with a 2% m solution (200 g per 10 liters). The drug works on fruit trees, currants, gooseberries and raspberries. In addition to the trunk and branches, the preparation is sprayed on the soil in the near-trunk circles. To read .

Modern drugs:

Kemiphos

The drug "Kemifos" in a dosage of 5 ml per 10 liters of water is used against a complex of pests on stone fruit and fruit crops, on berry bushes. Processing is best done in the morning or evening.

Prophylactin

In early spring, before bud break, when the average daily temperature reaches +4 degrees, you can spray fruit trees and berry bushes with the drug "Prophylactin". The solution destroys pests even before they wake up from hibernation.

Copper preparations

Hom and Oxyhom are used both for the first (before bud break) and for the second spraying (green cone phase). The solution is prepared according to the instructions.

Fungicides and insecticides

For spraying before bud break also used: fungicides (for diseases) Horus, Skor, Pharmayod, Abiga-peak, Raek, insecticides (for pests) "30 plus", "Prophylactin".

When the kidneys have already burst, but the leaves have not yet begun to unfold, they use insecticides (against pests) Iskra, Intavir, Tanrek, Kinmiks, Fufanon, Decis Profi, fungicides (for diseases) Horus, Skor, Oksikhom.

Folk remedies:

Salt

For spring spraying, a solution of sodium chloride is also used: 1 kg per 10 liters of water. It is believed that this solution is necessary for the start of sap flow.

Hot shower

Immediately after the snow melts, but while the buds have not yet blossomed, they carry out heat treatment of currant and gooseberry bushes: they are poured with hot water from a watering can (80 degrees) at the rate of 8-10 liters per 1 bush. This method allows you to destroy hibernating pests.

So, there is a huge amount of means for spraying trees and shrubs. And the processing time will largely depend on the chosen drug. Experienced gardeners also recommend focusing on the state of nature: the snow has almost melted, the temperatures are already above zero, but the buds have not yet woken up - it's time to start spraying. In total, in the spring, you can process the garden at least 4 times (in summer cottages), because different pests and diseases are activated at different times.

Sources used when writing the article:

Magazine "Household economy",
"DACHA" newspaper,
Book "Your Garden", V. Fatyanov,
The book "Preparing the site for spring", M. Zhmakin,
Video channel of the Sadovy Mir site on Youtube.
Video channel of the Greensad website on Youtube.

More than one I had to see apple trees at the beginning of summer, completely entangled cobwebs... AND caterpillars, hanging down like paratroopers when landing.

And we often hear: "Guard! What to do? They ate the floor of the apple tree "... Something has been saved. But sometimes it’s too late.

And for you it is necessary that and the harvest was, and do not eat a set of pesticides... Therefore, in this article we will consider the question of how when to treat apple trees from pestsso that this processing is the most harmless and effective.

I have acquaintances, so they want to process it once and decide everything.

Experienced gardeners believe that it is ideal if you do about 15 treatments various drugs. And even then the damage will be within 10-15 % ... This means that you need to choose the minimum number of required treatments.

And here residents of the southern regions and forest-steppe have to carry out more treatments for the prevention and destruction of pests. Or look for stronger drugs.

Pests hibernate better, multiply more, get used to drugs (last year it was effective, and this year, as I ironically, already as top dressing). Already one drug is not enough, but a tank mixture is needed.

Since the processing must be done practically all year round, a systematic approach is needed

Before you fight a pest, you need to know it.

What the pest loves and what he hates;
When does it appear and how it hibernates;
When, how much and how best to present him, for breakfast or dinner.

There are at least 30 different types of pestswho want to eat more than just an apple. But also the roots and bark and leaves. Here is such a variety. And below we will dwell on their characteristics in more detail.

Watch the video how, when and why to spray fruit trees in the garden:

Drugs

A garden without chemicals is the ideal. AND biological agents are a good way... And the "good" bacteria and viruses that destroy harmful insects and pathogens of tree diseases help.

But we often use chemical:

Faster and longer acting;
Easier to prepare;
More affordable.

And here they are more dangerous for health:

Dosage;
Compliance with security measures.

But don't forget about folk remedies!

Growth phase timing

The timing of garden processing depends entirely on the growth phase of the apple tree, the presence of a pest and the state of the weather.

February to March:
- dormant bud: treatment of pests that overwintered in the bark, near-stem circles, soil.
April to May:
- green cone (budding period);
- pink bud - before flowering;
- falling of flower petals.
End of May - June - ovary formation, fruit growth (1-2 treatments);
June to July - fruit growth (2-3 treatments);
Aug. Sept - ripening of fruits (1-2 treatments if necessary);
October November - after harvesting and foliage falling;
Winter - protection against rodents.

TIP! The number of treatments depends on the age of the garden, each tree:

5-7 years - 7-8 treatments;
8-15 years old - 8-9 treatments;
Over 15 years old - 10 treatments.

Apple tree spraying calendar in spring

Many people don't want to think. And so to have at hand a leaf on which it is written - what and on what day (date). You can write. But they will be indicative and depend on the terrain and on the weather (Kuban is not the Moscow region).

The main thing is:

Tree growth state;
The presence of a specific pest.

First spraying

Before charging the sprayer, remember:

Have you done the cropping?
Have the trunks been cleared of the affected and exfoliated bark, lichen?

And carry out the first spraying with dormant buds and an average temperature of about 5 degrees Celsius.

Options and not all:

Preparation 30B, copper sulfate;
DNOC;
Hom and Fufanon.

During the growing season (April-May)

With swelling of the kidneys (the period of the so-called green cone):

Aktara or Angio with Horus;
Copper sulfate;
Urea;
Nitrofen.

Before flowering (so-called rose bud):

Angio with Horus and Tiovit Jet;
Bordeaux mixture.

Attention!

Do spraying with complex preparations or tank mixtures (well compatible preparations);
Do not process apple trees during flowering.

When the leaves turn yellow

Try determine the cause and act without delay:

- pour;
Lack of fertilizers (nitrogen) and micronutrients -;
The appearance of pests or diseases - treat with insecticides and fungicides;
And even better if you do everything in a complex.

After flowering

Spray in May:

From caterpillars of moth and leafworm;
Weevils;
Sawflies;
Ticks.

For the prevention of diseases:

Engio and Horus;
Karbofos;
Benzophosphate;
Chlorophos.

Do another treatment after 2-3 weeks.Spray apple trees with ovary 7-10 days after the flower petals fall.

Can I spray when there are already fruits?

For clarity:

During the formation of the ovary (2nd and 3rd decade of May), butterfly and lays eggs, and its caterpillars appear in late May - early June:
- Skor (Topaz);
- Lufox (Match).
In late June - early July appears second generation of moth caterpillars;
And 2-3 more treatments.

Spraying apple trees with fruits.

Remember! The treatment is stopped 20 days before the onset of fruit ripeness.

Processing in autumn

Meaning:

Disease prevention;
Destroy the pest in the soil, bark, and branches.

Not only spraying, but a whole range of activities:

Collecting foliage and beads from under the trees;
Digging of near-trunk circles and soil;
Sanitary pruning;

When you need to spray apple trees from pests:

After harvest and foliage fall;
In calm weather and without rain:
- Carbamide (urea);
- Fufanon;
- Inkstone.

Spraying time with different preparations

A few words about drugs:

Insecticide - against harmful insects;
Fungicide - against any disease;
Contact:
- hit a pest and he is not a tenant, and quickly;
- lasts about a week, the rain washes away immediately.
System (complex):
- last for about two weeks;
- penetrate into the tissues of the tree;
- act on larvae and eggs.

Fungicides

Iron vitriol (ferrous sulfate)

For the prevention, treatment and fight against scab, lichens, rot, moss;
Provides the necessary iron for the growth of the apple tree and near-stem circles;
Pest control (destruction of laid eggs).

Use a 3-5% solution:

Early before bud break;
Late autumn as the leaves fall.

Be careful with deadlines! May burn buds and leaves that open.

Copper sulfate (copper sulfate)

Use for prevention and control fungal diseases (scab, black cancer, fruit rot, moniliosis);
Disinfects tree wounds during debris and cutting;
Disinfects the soil.

Apply in spring before bud break, after flowering and in fall.

Bordeaux liquid (mixture of lime and copper sulfate)

For prevention and treatment fungal diseases:
- you can cook either 1% or 3%;
- use immediately after cooking (flakes may form).
Carry out preventive treatments in 10-12 days;
Effective with 2-3 treatments.

Small inconvenience!Compliance with the cooking technology is required, and additional time is required.

From scab with urea (this is urea)

Apply:

For prevention and treatment from scab, spotting;
Against aphids, apple blossom beetle, weevil, honeydew;
Increases productivity thanks to nitrogen.

With a strong accumulation of pests, increase the concentration up to 7%;
Application - early spring and late autumn.

Horus

Very much in demand;
Universal:
- many diseases do not tolerate him;
- even improves the quality of fruits and their safety.
Reliable:
- works after a few hours and at low temperatures.

Apply:

Before flowering.
After flowering.
2 weeks before fruit ripeness.

Boric acid

The absence (lack) of boron is reflected in the leaves ( shrink), fruits ( necrosis).

Use for:

Increased yield (more ovary);
Increase of resistance (resistance) to diseases and weather conditions;
For spraying leaves.

Boron is contained in boron fertilizers (boric superphosphate, boric acid).

Fitosporin

For prevention powdery mildew, wilting, scab and other fungal diseases;
Soak roots and seeds;
Spend once every two weeks during the growing season.

Prestige drug (insecticide-fungicide)

It is also called a disinfectant:

Against g gnawing and sucking pests, beetle larvae, bear;
From disease.

May beetle larva.

In the garden and for the apple tree, it is valuable when planting seedlings:

Refuel in the landing pit when landing;
Water after planting.

Attention! After 40 days, it decomposes completely and then is no longer dangerous.

Hom

Prevention scab and moniliosis;
Contains copper;
Low toxicity for bees;
Process during the growing season:
- no more than 4 treatments;
- 20 days before maturity.

Insecticides

Fufanon

Use against:

Ticks;
Fruit moths;
Leaf rollers;
Sawfly;
Weevil;
Scabbard;
Medyanitsy and others.

Process:

IN growing season;
No more than 2 treatments after 20 days;
20 days before fruit ripeness.

Fitoverm

Pests:

Fruit moth;
Leaf roll;
Mite.

Apply with fruit growth: one - two treatments.

Karbofos

Pests:

Weevils;
Ticks;
Shield;
Fruit moth;
Leaf roll.

Attention!

Potent (use for severe lesions);
Dangerous for bees.

Intavir

Pests:

Fruit moths;
Leaf rollers;
Flower beetle;

Apply:

After flowering (7-10 days after the beginning of flowering);
No more than 3 treatments.

Attention! The result will be good if there is no rain in 4-5 hours.

Alatar

Pests:

Leaf roll;
Flower beetle;
Fruit moth;
Moth;
Copperhead;
Sawfly.

Apply:

During the growing season;
2-3 treatments;
30 days before fruit ripeness.

Spark ("Double Effect)

Pests:

Leaf roll;
Fruit moth;
Whitefly;
Flower beetle;
Weevil;
Sawfly;
Thrips.

Properties:

Versatile and quick action;
Double action (has a potassium component as top dressing).
Apply every 10-15 days;
3-4 treatments.

Imidakloprid (Confidor, Admir)

Systemic, intestinal and contact;
Validity period -15-20 days;
The result is effective 3-5 days after treatment.

Aktara

No smell, dissolves well;
Long period of action;
Works in hot weather;
Good compatibility with many fungicides.

Pests - sucking and gnawing insects:

Shield;
Whitefly.

Best applied with adhesives once during the growing season.

Californian scale insect on an apple tree.

Decis pro

Pests:

Fruit moth;
Leaf roll.

Attention! Poor compatibility with drugs that have an alkaline reaction.

Treatment by pest type

To avoid wormy apples, a set of measures must be taken to combat moth from the appearance of butterflies until autumn (see below).

From scab in spring

After spring pruning (but before appearance of leaves) - urea 5%;
Before the appearance of fruits - preparations containing copper (copper oxychloride, etc.);
After harvest - 1% Bordeaux liquid;
When an infection occurs, a complex of minerals (ammonium nitrate, ammonium sulfate, potassium salt).

Scab on an apple tree.

From the moth and so that there are no worm apples

Caterpillars appear 12-15 days after the early apples have faded;
In winter there are under the bark, in the hollows, in the soil.

Peel the trunks from dry bark onto a film and burn;
Dig soil around the trunks;
Install and clean the trapping belts;
Spray:
- after shedding the petals of winter apple trees;
- repeat after two weeks.

Apply karbofos, chlorophos, trichograms.

Apple flower beetle (fruit weevil)

In winter is in fallen leaves, under the bark.

Spray:

When budding;
When the ovary falls off against young beetles.

Chlorophos is very effective.

From fruit rot (or moniliosis)

The disease is infectious and is facilitated by:

Uncollected diseased apples, both fallen and on the tree (including last year's);
Damage by various pests.

Collect and destroy affected fruits;
Process the tree:
- from pests with insecticides (primarily moths);
- from diseases - Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate.

From leaf rollers

Hides in winter in the bark, on the branches near the buds;
Appears when the kidneys swell and open;
Curls the leaves.

Process:

Nitrafen in early spring;
Infusions of tobacco;
Karbofos;
Chlorophos.

Install:

Fishing belts;
Jars of fermenting molasses for catching butterflies.

Leaf roll.

From insects (and there are many)

Pests bark - bark beetles, scale insects, ticks.
Pests foliage, ovary, flowers, buds - caterpillars and beetles of leafworms, hawthorns, honeydews.
Pests fruit - caterpillars of leaf rollers and moths, sawflies.
Sucking pests -.

To make them fewer:

Collect and destroy fallen leaves and fruits;
Dig up the near-trunk soil;
Whitewash the trunks with lime;
Install trapping belts;
Spray trees with insecticides.

The whole garden, not just the apple tree, can be helped by planting plants, which if they do not destroy, then scare away harmful insects: garlic, calendula, tobacco, celery, sage, mint, chamomile, rosemary, dill, elderberry.

I would use this word to name everyone who harms the apple tree. We have listed the most dangerous ones (including when and how to defeat them). Make the harm from them the least possible.

From ants

At one time, I was an ardent supporter of their usefulness for the garden, but time passes. Now for me a colony of ants is aphid carriers:

You can make rovts with water if you have a lot of old tires;
Build trapping belts and clean them periodically.

Also use drugs Antimuravei and others.

From caterpillars

It could be leaf roll, and moth (which we have already covered above), and hawthorn, and apple sawfly, silkworm and others:

Therefore, the fight against them must be waged not only when they are already crawling, but even at earlier stages and in a complex;
Agricultural engineering and spraying.

From lichen

Appears on old apple trees... Prevention is done early in the vein and in the fall:

Timely ;
Clean the trunks hard nylon or metal brush:
- from growths;
- from peeling bark.
Lubricate cleared places:
- clay mixed with lime;
- a thick solution of lime and copper sulfate;
- strong 10% concentration of ferrous sulfate.

It is believed that lichen even protects the tree.

From whitefly

This quarantine pest can be a vector viral and fungal diseases.

Process:

Biological: Bitoxibacillin, Aktofit - 2-4 treatments at the vegetation stage;
Chemical: treatment with one drug is not enough. You already know insecticides (Fufanon, Preparation 30V, Aktara, Konfidor maxi, Iskra m, Karbofos and others);
Folk remedies: infusions of onion peels of garlic, yarrow (processing every 2-3 days).

Whitefly.

I remember a time when remedies against garden pests could be listed on one hand. Now even an experienced gardener is not easy to understand the proposed preparations.

There are specialized shops. Experts can suggest. Since the market is not a drug, all in one word "Bomb".

I'm sure it all depends on you!

In contact with

May entered the game and painted nature in its first bright colors. The trees are rapidly trying on new outfits, as if preparing for the summer, and a young blade of grass has spread across the ground. The bees immediately got down to business, fertilizing the flowers with nectar. From the first half of May, as soon as the sun constantly gives off heat, the grass is rapidly turning green, and the trees begin to be covered with dense leaves. In just a week, the leaf cover increases several times. At the same time, insect pests wake up. Therefore, timely and correct work will save our garden, make it healthy, beautiful and productive.

CARE OF FRUIT TREES AND SHRUBS:

At the beginning of the month we finish planting fruit trees. We examine the apple tree saplings planted in the fall, and carefully raise the ones that are too deep. We mulch the soil around the trees planted in autumn or spring, having previously loosened it.

At this time, late spring frosts are possible. We monitor the temperature and listen to forecasts in order to know in advance the danger of their occurrence. When freezing occurs, we begin to smoke or sprinkle the garden.Remember that even light frosts can damage flowers and deprive you of your harvest. For example, flower buds of an apple tree can withstand temperatures as low as -4 degrees, and already opened flowers will die at 0: -1 degrees.

As it appears, we remove the basal and stem shoots, cutting it into a ring.

We control the trapping belts; when dry, we install new ones based on the "Clean House", "Alt" glue.

Until the buds appear, it's time to treat pome trees with 1% Bordeaux liquid, a suspension of coloid sulfur (100 g of sulfur per 10 liters of water) or 0.01% Bayleton solution. Against apple sawfly and cherry weevil - with karbofos solution. If there are not many pests, then it is better to use biological preparations, for example, fitoverm.

After flowering, we treat plants from pests and diseases (moth - Fufanon, Kemifos, Iskra, Tsitkor, Kinmiks, Fury, mites - colloidal sulfur att-pe above 18 ° C or Neoron at low or high temperatures, aphids - Desis, Klinmix, scab - Skor, spotting - Copper oxychloride)

White boles with hexachloride emulsion for pest control.

Before flowering, we water the garden at the rate of 1.5-2 buckets of water for each year of the tree's life.

We carry out fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers (after flowering), followed by mulching of the trunks(with a layer of 8-10 cm). At the end of May, we carry out a second nitrogen fertilization if the leaves are light green.

We carry out repeated sanitary pruning if necessary.

We carry out the second spraying of gooseberries from powdery mildew (immediately after flowering, but not earlier than 10 days after the first spraying)

We spray other fruit bushes against diseases and pests (immediately after flowering)

Weed the weeds.

At the beginning of the second decade, we carry out the first feeding of garden strawberries.Before loosening the soil, add urea (250-300 g per 10 m²) or ammonium nitrate (300-400 g per m²).

Under favorable weather conditions, floweringgarden strawberry ends in the third decade of May. At this time, it is optimal to carry out the second feeding: Urea
(urea) (NH 2 ) 2 CO - Application rate - 10-15 g / m2, Superphosphate Ca (H 2 PO 4 ) 2 - Application dose - 20-30 g / m², Potassium sulfate K 2 SO 4 - Application dose - 15-20 g / m².

CARE OF DECORATIVE DECIDUAL TREES AND SHRUBS:

We spray from pests, the processing time is the beginning of bud break (green cone). 0.1% solution of AKTELLIK; 0.01% solution of DIMILIN; 0.01% ARRIVO solution; 0.02% solution of KARATE; 0.03% INTA-VIR solution; 0.01% solution of TSIMBUSH; 1% solution of colloidal sulfur. With repeated treatments, it is necessary to change the active substance, and not the name of the drug.

In mid-May, we carry out foliar feeding of deciduous trees and shrubs with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. For this top dressing, we take any readily soluble nitrogen fertilizers and dilute them according to the instructions, then add 10 parts of water to the resulting solution, counting the volume of the solution diluted according to the instructions per unit. We spray the plants with the obtained weak solution of nitrogen fertilizers over the green mass, avoiding the solution getting on the flowers.

If you did not have time to feed deciduous trees and shrubs in April, we include this event in the maintenance of the garden in May. We apply a complete mineral fertilizer with a predominance of nitrogen into the soil, under a shovel.

We carry out repeated treatment from pests.

Weeding the landings.

CARE OF CONIFEROUS TREES AND SHRUBS:

We process conifers and shrubs, especially we pay attention to plants that are not characteristic of our zone - thuja, junipers, hemlock, and other immunostimulating drugs and drugs that stimulate root formation, such as EPIN, ETAMON.

We weed the trunks of trees and shrubs, carefully removing the roots of perennial weeds - by doing this work in the garden in May in good faith, you will save yourself from exhausting summer labor. After weeding and loosening the soil, it's time to fix and form tree-trunk circles and shrubs.

In the first decade of May, we carry out root dressing: NUTRISOL 25g per plant (10l 0.25% solution), continuous treatment against bark beetles and foliar dressing: DETSIS PROFI 0.04% + complex chelated micronutrient fertilizer 0.2% + iron chelate 0.1% + lignohumate K 0.15%

In recent years, spring has often been very dry in our region. We water the tree-trunk circles and shrubs. Watering should be abundant and long-term. Unlike deciduous, coniferous plants love sprinkling.

In the third decade of May, complete treatment of plants from diseases and pests: CLIPER 0.2% + TOPAZ 0.1%, and root feeding:NUTRISOL 25g per plant (10l. 0.25% solution)

GAS CARE:

We carefully inspect the surface of the lawn, if we see the appeared moss, we clean the areas of the lawn from moss. If there is a lot of moss on the lawn, add a mixture of sifted sand and dolomite flour (or lime).

We remove weeds from the surface of the lawn.

If after winter there are a lot of "bald" spots on the lawn, we sow seeds of lawn grass, additionally to these areas, mixing these seeds with sand. We will roll up the sown areas of the lawn.

If the weather is dry, we water the lawn.

Lawn mowing begins in May. ATTENTION!!! The lawn grass weakened after winter is mowed high - by 7-8 cm. Low mowing of the lawn in May will further weaken the lawn and lead to an even greater loss of decorative effect.

After the first mowing of the lawn, we feed the lawn with full mineral fertilizer, with a predominance of nitrogen.

We mow the lawn regularly, perhaps every week, as the grass grows back.

FLOWER CARE:

If in April they did not manage to remove parts of perennial plants - it's time to do it in early May.

Be sure to remove flower stalks on faded bulbous plants, do not allow the setting of seeds.

We loosen the soil in flower beds, carefully removing perennial weeds.

We will carry out foliar feeding of flower beds with fertilizer with a predominance of nitrogen.

We will introduce a complete mineral fertilizer with a predominance of nitrogen in the soil of the flower garden.

We will mulch the surface of the flower beds to prevent the topsoil from drying out (you can use neutral peat, wood chips, which we get by chopping branches of trees and bushes).

We plant seedlings of annual flowers in decorative flowerpots and pots.

The rhizomes of the irises must be dug out so that they are half protruding from the ground, the roots of irises prefer to be closer to the soil surface, where the greatest amount of nutrients is concentrated. That is why the ground around the plant must be very carefully loosened, ensuring thatthis is the access of air masses to the root system.

Landscape designer LLC "Greenlandia" Togliatti
Ayupova Gelfiya

COTTAGE ACTION PLAN FOR MAY

1. It is very useful to spray all plants at the moment of unfolding the leaves with a mixture of "Zircon", "Epina-extra" and "Cytovita", each with 2 drops per 1 liter of water. This spraying should be done on those plants that were sick the previous summer, and for the rest it is an excellent prevention. "Zircon" helps plants to overcome fungal and bacterial diseases, "Epin-extra" increases the resistance of plants to spring frosts. "Tsitovit" is a good foliar feeding with macro- and microelements, which is quite useful after winter, especially without the sun. The fact is that as soon as the leaf unfolds, literally 20-30 seconds later, the process of photosynthesis begins in the chlorophyll nucleus. But since the ground in the root zone usually has not yet warmed up to 8 ° C at this time, the roots continue to sleep and do not work, that is, they do not supply the macro- and microelements necessary for protein formation to the leaf. This, as a rule, happens in regions with a cold climate, in particular in the Northwest. And the leaf starts producing carbohydrates. This requires only a quantum of light, carbon dioxide, which is enough in the air, and water, which is always present in the plant. Pests fly to this treat from all directions, since both insects and mites prefer carbohydrates rather than proteins.

The only correct way is to urgently give the plants everything they need to make protein, that is, to make foliar feeding on the leaves. Instead of "Tsitovit" you can use "Uniflor-growth", "Uniflor-bud", "Florist", a solution of "Kemira-kombi" or at least "Azofoski", and even better - "Solution" of the Buisk plant of chemical fertilizers.

2. There is another effective remedy for spring garden protection. This is a homeopathic remedy "Healthy Garden". It normalizes the biochemical processes in the plant so that the balance between carbohydrates and proteins is always the same as it should be in healthy plants, therefore pests (and some diseases) do not touch such plants. In particular, with systematic spraying of the garden (once every 3-4 weeks), it is possible to completely get rid of the moth and scab on apple trees. I also prefer to use Ekoberin together with Zdorovy Sad, which perfectly protects plants from all kinds of temperature scrapes (frost, drought, sudden temperature changes, sunburns in spring). In addition, it is an excellent ecological umbrella that prevents the penetration of toxic substances into plants and promotes the removal of heavy metal salts. The first spraying must be done without fail, since the root system has not yet come into operation. In the Northwest, this should be done at the very beginning of May. But all subsequent spraying can be replaced by watering around the perimeter of the plant crown, because in June, July and August, the root system works fine and will absorb the solution of these drugs. One "but": when feeding through the roots, the consumption of drugs is about three times higher than when foliar feeding. And the weeds will also try to snatch something for themselves. But the work is easier than spraying - he spread and poured from a watering can. By the way, the solution of these drugs is worth it, so that it can be prepared for future use and even poured into the infusion of weeds.

If you do not have enough energy or time for such a global spraying, you can simply water the plantings with a solution of these drugs. The effect will still be, only slower. But watering alone is not enough, since the duration of the action of this solution in the plant does not exceed three weeks.

3. The bacterial preparation "Fitosporin", which effectively works both in the soil and in the leaves, cannot be added at once for the whole season into a barrel with weeds. It should be dissolved in a small amount of water (it is twice as much as the drug) and such a concentrated solution should be kept in the shade. As needed, you should take a tablespoon of solution per 10 liters of water and water the soil and plants. It is very good to make such a mixture of Fitosporin and Gumi together. So you have a choice, it's up to you - decide what and how much to buy for the upcoming season.

4. May is the busiest month, no wonder there is a proverb "May is coming - a lot of work." First of all, carefully examine your seedlings. If the leaves begin to curl downward, and the leaf blades are curved or become convex, a spider mite has settled on them, which is visible only through a magnifying glass. Aphids may appear on peppers. We urgently need to process the seedlings (and at the same time indoor flowers) with Fitoverm or Healthy Garden.

5. In addition, before transporting tomato seedlings to the site, it is necessary to make preventive treatment against late blight with a weak solution of copper. The easiest way is to take a powder "Hom" (copper oxychloride) on the tip of a knife and dilute it in 3 liters of water, then spray tomato seedlings in the evening. Instead of copper, you can use "Zircon" or "Fitosporin" (in the apartment they are preferable).

6. Seedlings aster it is imperative to water it with Fitosporin solution or spray it with Zircon or a solution of the same Homa for prophylaxis against black leg.

7. If any seedlings have pale greens, then feed them with a solution of calcium nitrate (1 hour spoon for 3 liters of water). If the leaves stretch vertically upward or the lower part of the leaves and the stem are purple (especially in tomatoes), this indicates a lack of phosphorus. Top up by dissolving a teaspoon of double granular superphosphate in a glass of hot water (or a tablespoon of ash), let stand overnight, then dilute with 3 liters of warm water, stir and pour over the tomatoes. Eggplants often have a purple stem, this is a feature of some varieties, and not a lack of phosphorus. If the eggplants do not have enough phosphorus, they lift the leaves up. Peppers rarely experience phosphorus starvation, more often they do not have enough potassium, then their leaves curl up in a boat. Feed them with potassium nitrate (a teaspoon for three liters of water) or spray with a solution of "Uniflor-Bud" (a teaspoon for 5 liters of water). If the peppers are healthy, their young leaves are lighter than the rest.

8. Do not water the seedlings for 2-3 days before transporting to the site. Then it will be less fragile and easier to transfer, and it will not be so difficult for you, since the soil will be dry and light.

9. When planting seedlings tomato in the greenhouse, make such holes in which the seedlings are placed with a clod of earth and the tomatoes can still be buried in the soil. Before lowering the seedlings into the hole, put an incomplete tablespoon of superphosphate and a third of a teaspoon of the dust fraction of the AVA fertilizer, mix slightly with the soil, pour at least 4-5 liters of water on it. When the water is absorbed, plant the plants. Then the tomatoes should be cured, and the soil under them should be mulched. As mulch, you can use high-moor peat in a layer of about 10 cm or newspapers, folded in several layers to prevent moisture evaporation from the ground. With such a planting, you can safely not feed and water the tomatoes all season. The water will go down, the roots will reach for it, and there is always moisture at depth. Moreover, a slight lack of water is beneficial, because it creates a stressful situation in which tomatoes begin to bear fruit faster.

10. This method is not suitable for planting peppers or eggplant seedlings as they should be watered all summer albeit in moderation. Peppers do not tolerate the slightest drying out of the surface layer of the soil, but at the same time they do not like waterlogging.

11. I remind you that peppers when picking and transplanting, they do not deepen, eggplants can be deepened. A teaspoon of chlorine-free potassium fertilizer or a tablespoon of ash should be added to the hole before transplanting pepper seedlings. He loves peppers (and eggplants too) adding a third teaspoon of the powdered fraction of AVA fertilizer.

12. Do not forget that in the first half of May, nightshade crops cannot be fed with nitrogen in any form. Firstly, nitrogen reduces the frost resistance of any plants, and secondly, nightshade crops will shed their buds and even ovaries. So wait a little with feeding with manure, infusion of weeds or "Kemira" until the ovaries begin to grow.

13. Cut seedlings of annual flowers, parsley, bush dill.

14. Hold the greened potato tubers for half an hour in a solution of "Fitosporit" or "Homa" for the prevention of fungal diseases. Or use bright pink potassium permanganate. And put in boxes for germination, interlayering with newspapers. Cover the last layer of potatoes with newspapers and close the drawer. Put it in the warmest place, the club will sprout quickly. Potatoes in such packaging are easy to transport to the country.

15. It should be planted at the time of flowering bird cherry. Despite the cold snap, the soil has already warmed up enough and there is enough moisture in it. In regions with a cold climate, it is not recommended to plant potatoes deep (on a shovel bayonet), because there are usually cold soils. Potatoes are a thermophilic culture. In order for the tubers to start growing, the soil temperature in the root zone should be 12-15 ° C. The cold is coming from below, the upper layer has warmed up to a shallow depth, so plant the potatoes half a shovel bayonet. In the Northwest, on heavy soils, it should generally be planted to a depth of only 5-7 cm, and on light soils - 8-10 cm.

16. To protect against wireworms, place a handful of dry onion husks under each tuber, or even better, pour a solution containing Nemabakt.

17. On the site now it is no longer possible to spray the garden with concentrated mineral fertilizer or iron sulfate against lichens. Leave this work for late autumn, but protective spraying against the first pests that lay larvae and eggs in the expanding buds, and then in the buds, must be done. Before flowering, karbofos can be used, since it decomposes within a week and will have time to neutralize itself by the time beneficial insects emerge at the time of flowering of the garden. Better yet, sprinkle with citrus peels or onion peels. It is especially important to do this on time in the cab. I recommend using the Spring Cocktail.

18. Strawberries can be treated with Fitoverm against weevil and Zircon against gray rot. These drugs are compatible, so you can dissolve them together in one liter of water by taking 2 drops of "Zircon" and 6 drops of "Fitoverm".

19. Gooseberry bushes, affected by powdery mildew, can be treated with Vectra or Topaz, but I prefer non-chemical remedies, and therefore I use a wonderful trinity - Zircon, Epin-extra and Cytovite.

20. Apple treeswho are sick with scab, usually recommend to treat with "Vectra" or "Skor". Do the first spraying on young leaves, and the second - about two weeks after the end of flowering, on young ovaries. In the fall, one more spraying with the same preparations should be done - after the harvest. It is better to replace these chemical poisons with "Zircon" with "Epin-extra" and "Tsitovit" at the moment of unfolding the leaves, it is possible for young ovaries, and after harvesting the same way. Better yet, add "Healthy Garden" to the solution.

In general, the systematic use of the "Healthy Garden" will relieve plants from the attack of any pests (including aphids), as well as from scab. So the choice of remedies for apple trees is in your hands!

21. Make sure that at the time of flowering the ants do not eat the ovary of the black currant. If the bushes are in bloom, but they don't give berries, that's their job. Under the bushes, to protect against ants, you can lay a rag soaked in kerosene on the soil (but please do not pour kerosene directly onto the soil). Ants and many other insects do not like its smell and will leave this place. You can drop a drop of Absolute (against ants) or Clean House gel on each trunk growing out of the ground.

Better yet, use the Great Warrior gel. This is bait. The ants will run to feast on it, but since they treat each other with food, each will not only die himself, but also destroy a lot of relatives, and most importantly, the uterus. By the way, this drug acts in the same way on wasps. If a large number of ants are scurrying around on the soil under the bushes, remove about 2 cm of the top layer - most likely, there will be an ant egg-laying there. Sprinkle it with the preparations "Fenaxin" or "Ant" - ants and eggs will die.

22. Pruning the garden in May should not be done, especially for cherries, plums and all vines, including grapes. Leave the pruning for the fall.

23. Throughout May, you can still graft apple trees if you have prepared and saved the cuttings in advance.

24. Check for kidney mites on black currants. Mites are usually found in large, round, swollen buds that are very different from others and are clearly visible. Such kidneys must be robbed and burned in the stove, and not thrown away anywhere.

25. When the black currant blooms, look for abnormal flowers on the bushes with narrow, fused, dirty pink petals. This is a very dangerous and contagious disease of black currant for other bushes - terry. Such a bush should be immediately uprooted and burned, even if the flowers are only on one branch.

26. Red Ribes often attacked by the red-gall aphid, which penetrates the inside of the leaf, eating the flesh. Her stool causes poisoning and red swelling of the leaves. Early spraying of young leaves with Fitoverm will help against such aphids, which is absorbed by them and is in the cell sap for three weeks, protecting the plant from any sucking or gnawing pests. Any external spraying is practically useless, because the aphid is inside the leaf.

27. As soon as pink sprouts appear on the peonies, you should immediately apply a protective spraying on them against rot with a solution of any preparation containing copper, for example Bordeaux liquid. You can also use "Fi-tosporin" or "Zircon".

28. Open roses and clematis and do the same spraying. Then cover them again, but without spruce branches, only with boxes. Put the film on top again, pressing it with a stone so that the wind does not blow away. Remove this shelter when the frost has finally passed.

29. It is also necessary to plant phlox, perennial asters, delphiniums and bearded irises with Fitosporin directly on the soil.

30. Later, when shoots of lilies appear, do the same spraying on them. This is especially true for oriental hybrids. In general, they should be sprayed systematically all summer, at least once a month, with any of these drugs in order to protect them from the nasty fungal disease - botrytis.

31. If you did not do this at the end of April, then at the very beginning of May, sow onions into the ground - nigella, spring garlic, parsley, dill, cilantro, watercress, sorrel, carrots, lettuce, turnips.

To prevent seedlings from thickening, before sowing, mix a teaspoon of seeds, a teaspoon of the dust fraction of AVA fertilizer, half a glass of fine river sand and sow into prepared furrows as if you were salt food. You can also use ash, but not under carrots - it will become a multi-tailed one. Instead of sand, you can take dust from sleeping tea or coffee. From above, all crops must first be covered with an old film before sprouting, securing it so that the wind does not blow away (to preserve moisture in the upper layer). Then, after the emergence of shoots, the film must be removed and the beds covered with lutrasil. Watering will be done directly on it.

32. Radish should be sown one by one at once every 3-4 cm. But giant radishes (such as "Duro" and "Alyoshka" or non-shooting "Soro", "White nights" and "Red Sun") must be sown immediately at a distance of 3-5 cm , and then still thin out, eating grown roots. Then the remaining ones will reach 8-10 cm in diameter, otherwise, due to a lack of space, the root crops of the Duro and Alyoshka varieties will have about 4 cm in diameter.

33. In greenhouses on insulated soil (for example, hay introduced into trenches under a soil layer of 25-30 cm), cucumbers can be sown with dry seeds already in early May, as well as pumpkin and zucchini for seedlings. Beets and cauliflowers, as well as seeds of annual flowers, can also be sown in a greenhouse and cover the crops with foil before emergence. It will have to be replaced with double thin lutrasil as soon as seedlings appear.

34. In the middle of the month, you can sow seeds of watermelons and melons, as well as transplant seedlings of tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, over which a strong wire should be stretched horizontally. Then cover the planted plants with a double thin lutrasil, slung over the wire. Under such a shelter, seedlings in a greenhouse tolerate frosts down to minus 6 ° C.

35. When planting seedlings and dry seeds of cucumbers, a hydrogel can be added to the wells, which is pre-soaked in water. The hydrogel turns water into a gel, so the water does not go deep and does not evaporate from the soil surface. Plants gradually take moisture from it. Watering can be done once every two to three weeks. Hydrogel replaces drip irrigation with water. When sowing seeds and planting seedlings, you can pour one third of a teaspoon of the dust fraction of AVA fertilizer into the holes. This is where all the mineral fertilizing of plants ends. Under the cucumbers, it is good to add potassium nitrate before sowing or transplanting seedlings. In the future, it will only take the rest of the summer to water the cucumbers not with water, but with infusion of weeds. Watering cucumbers planted on a hydrogel is reduced to once every 20 days.

36. Peas and beans - the plants are cold-resistant, they can be sown in the ground already on May 7-12 without pre-soaking. Beans should be poured with very hot water (about 70 ° C) and sowed immediately, but this should be done later - around May 21-27.

37. Onion sets and turnips in the Northwest, it should be planted in mid-May.

38. Zucchini and pumpkins at the same time, it can be planted in the ground, insulated with hay, or on a compost heap under a film shelter.

39. Seedlings of cauliflower are planted in the ground at the end of May, but it should be covered with lutrasil - firstly, from night frosts, and secondly, during the cherry blossoms (mid-May) there are summer summer vegetable flies, which are very fond of cabbage.

40. Do not rush to plant beet seedlings in the ground or sow them in the ground until the end of the frost. If the beets fall at an early age not only under frost, but even under a cold snap to 3-4 ° C, they will go to the arrow or give a small hard-stone root crop. If May is cold, then beet seedlings will be better planted in early June.

41. In the middle of May, not only vegetable flies fly, but also glass flies, so spray black currant bushes with infusion of weeds at this time (to disorient the pest).

42. In May, to help apple trees, cherries and plums survive frost more easily, they should be sprayed with one of the following preparations: "Epin-extra", "Novosil" or "Ekoberin". In addition, if the frosts were prolonged or strong, spray the trees with the preparation "Ovary" (or "Bud", "Gippersib") on the buds and flowers. This will prevent the ovaries from falling off.

43. Do not feed any plants with nitrogen in May! It reduces frost resistance, and in addition, promotes the shedding of ovaries, especially in tomatoes, eggplants and peppers. Until their first fruits begin to pour in, fertilizing containing nitrogen is contraindicated for them (including infusion of weeds). The same applies to flowers. All nitrogen fertilization should be transferred to early June, when the frost ends.

44. In a cold, lingering wet spring, stone fruit, especially cherry, can suffer from moniliosis. Almost overnight, leaves and whole branches turn brown, as if they were doused with boiling water or a chemical. In the future, such leaves and branches dry up, but then at the beginning of summer, in some places, leaves reappear, which quickly turn yellow and fly around ahead of schedule. "Zircon" is a very effective remedy to combat this scourge. Spraying three times during the season can save trees from death.

45. The end of May is a good time to plant strawberry rosettes from the mother bushes.

46. \u200b\u200bAll of May is the time for planting fruit trees.

The garden is gradually waking up after a long hibernation, the buds are about to begin to bloom. Now, in spring, fruit trees and shrubs especially need the protection and attention of a gardener. How to process trees and shrubs in early spring, how to help our beloved "flavors" to cure diseases, protect from pests and adverse climatic conditions, we figure it out together with experienced gardeners of our portal, who have accumulated volumes of useful material on this topic over the years of gardening.

In this article, we'll cover:

How to prepare a remedy for spring spraying at home;
Calendar of garden treatments in early spring in spring. When to carry out the first treatment;
How to prepare Bordeaux liquid;
How to deal with fungal diseases;

A member of our portal Elenithree grandchildren, therefore, in his family they attach great importance to the safety of fruits and berries, and "no chemistry" is used at all. The question of how to spray fruit trees and shrubs in the spring does not arise in this family: the treatment of the garden from diseases and pests is done only with safe home remedies.

Home remedies for spraying fruit trees and bushes:

Infusion of garlic;
Infusion of onion peels.
Green soap is added to these infusions for better adhesion.

An infusion of onion peels is made as follows: 350 grams of onion peels are poured with two liters of water, brought to a boil and cooled. The resulting solution is diluted in 10 liters of water with 2 tablespoons of green soap (sold in garden stores).

Garlic infusion recipe: 300 grams of whole, unpeeled garlic heads are passed through a meat grinder, poured with water. The mixture is insisted for a day, stirring from time to time, add 2 tablespoons of green soap, and dilute in 10 liters of water.

Also popular is the treatment of currant and gooseberry bushes with boiling water (not hot water, but boiling water, from a boiled teapot), which is carried out even before the buds open. Try to start processing with this - surprisingly, boiling water turns out to be no less effective than special substances.

Helga FORUMHOUSE User

This is an old way of destroying bud mites and powdery mildew rudiments.

How can we help our beloved "scent", how to treat them in order to cure diseases, protect against pests and unfavorable climatic conditions? Let's see what the experienced gardeners of our portal are doing.

How to prepare a tool for spring garden spraying at home.
Calendar of treatments for fruit plants in spring.
How to prepare Bordeaux liquid.
How to deal with mushroom plants.
Why it is impossible to refuse spring garden treatments.

Home remedies

A member of our portal Elenithree grandchildren, therefore, in his family they attach great importance to the safety of fruits and berries, and "no chemistry" is used at all. In early spring, he sprays all his garden bushes and trees with infusions of garlic and onion peels, to which he adds green soap for better adhesion.

An infusion of onion peels is made as follows: 350 grams of onion peels are poured with two liters of water, brought to a boil and cooled. The resulting solution is diluted with 10 liters of water with 2 tablespoons of green soap (sold in garden stores).

Both of these infusions are used for spring spraying of all fruit crops.

Also popular is the treatment of currant and gooseberry bushes with boiling water (not hot water, but just boiling water, from a boiled teapot), which is carried out even before the buds open.